Figure 1PHOTO CREDIT: OrchardPeople.com
Bare root fruit tree is a dormant tree that is shipped with no soil around its roots. Fruit tree nurseries are where you can find them. The bare-root fruit tree is best taken out of the nursery and planted in the early spring or late fall when they are dormant with no leaves, flowers or fruits.
Bare root fruit trees are easier and lighter to handle than those held in pots or containers. They are also cheaper because they weigh less accounting for cheap shipping fees.
Bare root fruit trees should be kept in dark places before planting to avoid them coming into contact with heat and leading to the buds opening up. This will be a sign of them emerging from dormancy and when they become stressed, they die due to lack of nourishment.
When the budding season arrives, bare root trees planted in the fall and shielded from strong freezes by mulch will continue to root over the winter and will be more established than spring-planted trees.
Planting bare root fruit trees, whether in the spring or the fall, is essentially the same. When you get them home, carefully split the trees if you bought more than one, then untangle the raffia.
Step by Step Process
Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil rather than hard-pack or clay. Before transferring young trees to their permanent site, they can be temporarily planted in good quality garden soil (do not fertilize trees when planting) for a couple of years of steady growth. This will also allow you to work the soil in the permanent location.
The first step is to prepare the ground. If you’re going to plant in a lawn, start by removing a three-foot-wide (1-meter) circle of turf. This will prevent grass from competing for moisture and nutrients with the young tree.
Any permanent weeds, including their roots, should be dug up. If your soil is sandy or clay-heavy, add a lot of organic matter to the whole planting area and dig it in. Instead of just the planting hole, amending the entire area will stimulate the tree’s roots to spread out into the surrounding soil, allowing it to develop more quickly.
Dig a planting hole in the prepared area that is large enough to accept the roots without cramming them in and causing them to bend back on themselves. Because of all the groundwork you’ve done so far, this should be a rather straightforward task.
Figure 2PHOTO CREDIT: groworganic.com
To give your fruit tree a healthy drink, soak it in a pail of water for a couple of hours before planting. Take a close look at the trunk right above the roots before you plant. The original soil level should be indicated by a line where the base of the trunk goes from dark to light. Our goal is to plant the tree at the same depth as the previous one. If the line isn’t visible, make sure your tree is planted just right to cover the roots.
Figure 3PHOTO CREDIT: finegardening.com
To act as a guide for the soil level, use a cane or tool handle to bridge the earth on either side of the planting hole. Begin filling in the holes in the soil while keeping the tree at the proper level. Shake the trunk as you fill it to get the soil in between all of the roots.
Firm in the soil with the toe of your boot pointed towards the trunk as you near the top of the hole so you don’t stamp it down and compact it. Then fill up the gaps with the remaining soil. Water the area around the planting location thoroughly to help the soil settle in.
A tree tie is used to secure the tree to the stake. Rubber tree ties are commonly used since they are elastic and gentle on the bark. Secure it in a figure-eight pattern around the stake and trunk at a height of about two feet (60cm).
Then, around the tree, put a two-inch (5-cm) layer of organic mulch like compost to help suppress weeds and preserve moisture. To avoid rotting, keep the mulch away from the trunk to prevent it from rotting.
It’s important to remember that if you’re planting on a modest inclination, such as a hillside or other slope, you’ll need to drag the leftover soil around to the tree’s lower side to make a berm.
When planting on a hill or incline, a berm is commonly utilized as a levy to keep water in place. The berm will act as a retainer, allowing the water to seep down to the roots of your tree rather than flowing off and down the hill.
Most trees shouldn’t need to be staked if they’re planted correctly. Your tree may need to be staked, even if only temporarily, if it has a small root ball and/or is in a highly windy region.
Enjoy the blossoms of your fall-planted fruit tree in April, but remove any fruit that may set. This helps the tree get off to a faster start.
